Meet AJ, the culinary force behind Al Naqa Lao Kebab House, where Laos, Persia, the GCC and the Levant come together in a dazzling party parade of flavours. With a heart full of family traditions and a passion for sharing his Lao roots, AJ has crafted a hidden gem in Motor City’s Neighbourhood Food Hall that everyone is talking about
How did working in your family’s Lao and Thai restaurants shape your approach to cooking and hospitality?
Growing up in the food industry in Canada, working every role from dishwasher to prep cook, gave me a deep respect for every aspect of the restaurant business. It instilled a strong foundation for service and a love for creating memorable dining experiences in me.
You went to university to study computer engineering. What led you to change path and can you share a timeline of your career so far?
I quickly discovered that my curiosity for science and data wasn’t as strong as my excitement for everything food-related. My experiences have taken me to culinary school, competing in many competitions, working with David Chang at Momofuku in Toronto, leading all of the outlets at the Waldorf Astoria New York as Chef de Cuisine and working at various other hotels and restaurants. My last opportunity was a corporate position that allowed me to create food retail brands and advocate for vertical farming and water scarcity at the UAE pavilion, Expo 2020.
What inspired the fusion of Southeast Asian and Middle Eastern flavours?
One of the more popular dishes I served at my family’s restaurant was Massamun Curry. I was intrigued by the depth of flavour and usage of spices that aren’t usually found in Thai cuisine. Spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, fennel, cloves and nutmeg are pounded into the paste of this curry. My family told me this dish had Muslim origins from Persian spice traders during the 17th century. I was fascinated by the history and wondered why there were no other dishes that married the two regions. My imagination began to run wild and I started to create recipes that seamlessly blended Persian, Levantine and Southeast Asian cuisines.
What’s the secret to a great kebab and where did you learn to cook like this?
A delicious kebab should never be dry – it needs the right balance of fat and a marinade that naturally breaks down proteins, enhanced by the depth of flavour from fire. While I've grilled and barbecued throughout my career, learning to work with firewood became a personal passion. This curiosity began when I worked at a Japanese robata restaurant and deepened during collaborations with Chef Faisal from Lento, where we used Japanese binchotan for grilling.
Can you tell us what you love about grilling?
I enjoy the meditative process of starting a wood fire. It's peaceful, patiently waiting for the flames to become white embers that sear ingredients. It takes skill to keep the fire going all day, balancing burning wood with new logs. It’s a primal act that both challenges and soothes you.
Can you tell us what to expect if we dine at Al Naqa?
Al Naqa offers a casual dining experience with deceptively simple dishes like rice and kebabs that are packed with flavour and technique. Our signature ‘golden rice’ is coconut jasmine rice with pandan, saffron, crispy onions, raisins, cashews and dill. The kebabs are marinated with galangal, lemongrass and spices, then grilled over firewood for a clean, smokey taste. Guests gravitate towards the black lemon tamarind lamb kebabs and my Grandma’s fried chicken with no batter, making it extra crispy. They also love our firewood-grilled banana split sundae and homemade cola.
What is your favourite dish to cook at home?
Whenever I get a chance to cook at home, I love to make Lao pho. It’s a chicken pho soup that my Mom taught me. It has more garnishes than other typical beef pho versions. It has lots of herbs, diced tomato for natural acidity, loads of chopped red chilies, crispy garlic chilli oil, toasted peanuts and a squeeze of lime. Depending on how much time I have, I’ll make my grandma’s chewy hand-cut rice noodles to pair.
