Spanning over 5,000 square kilometres, Istanbul is one of the largest cities in the world. But capturing the true essence of this historic hub through its sites and food is no easy feat and can require multiple trips. Here, we round up some of the best places to see and things to eat in the bi-continental city when all you have is just one day
Where to eat
Breakfast:
Set against the historic Rumeli Fortress with sweeping views of the Bosphorus, Lokma has emerged as one of the best breakfast destinations in the city.
Go with a big appetite – and some friends – as you'll want to sample everything on the menu. Standout dishes include burek (flaky phyllo dough with minced meat and onion), menemen (scrambled eggs with sautéed peppers in a tomato sauce), fried eggs with sujuk, muhammara, tahin pekmez (a traditional spread made of tahini and molasses – Türkiye’s version of peanut butter!) and kaymak (buffalo milk cottage cheese) with raw honey. Don't forget to scoop up every last bit with freshly baked lavash bread and simit (Turkish sesame bread).
If you’re in the mood for a touch of luxury, then Kandilli Pastanesi is the place for you. Located on the Anatolian peninsula of Türkiye, in one of the scenic alleys of hilly Kandilli, this boutique patisserie serves cakes, tarts and desserts.
If breakfast is the goal, their Royal Breakfast menu is available until 2 PM. Start with the Chaud Froid: hot and cold œuf à la coque with creamy spinach, runny egg yolk, smoky-savoury pastrami and crispy cubed potatoes – a fusion of flavours with every spoonful. Then, work your way through their velvety scrambled eggs and smashed avocado on a pillowy brioche and end with a traditional Turkish breakfast complete with Turkish cheeses, tea and a basket of Kandilli Pastanesi’s finest viennoiseries.
Reservations are recommended.
Lunch/dinner:
Karaköy was once a major port city known as Galata, home to the historic 14th-century Galata Tower. Today, it is a commercial centre where you’ll find chic cafés, family-run bakeries and one of the best kebab spots in town, Ali Ocakbașı.
They’ve dedicated two pages of their menu to kebabs. Start with some hot and cold mezze such as köpoglu (fried eggplants, potatoes and capsicum in a tomato purée with yoghurt), yogurtlu semizotu (yoghurt with purslane), içli köfte (stuffed beef and lamb meatballs with walnuts) and pastirmali humus (hummus with pastrami). As for their famous kebabs, they’re made fresh to order and grilled in an open kitchen in front of you. We recommend the Ali kebap, a balanced blend of ground minced lamb and beef seasoned with a mix of Anatolian spices and cooked until perfectly caramelised on the outside and tender within.
Don’t be afraid to dig in with your hands!
Located in Atatürk Cultural Centre, a 10-minute walk from Istiklal Avenue, BİZ Istanbul is all about honouring the city’s cultural diversity through communal eating. With a seasonal menu that changes every eight days, the restaurant’s concept is inspired by Istanbul’s three main dining environments: the street, the home and the palace.
BiZ Istanbul’s menus prominently feature ingredients such as tomatoes, tahini, aubergine, lamb and dried fruit, which represent some of Turkey's culinary traditions*. Their spring menu, for instance, includes dishes such as meat sarma (stuffed chard leaves), aubergine dip, talaş Böreği (meat and vegetable burek), islak burger (‘wet burger’ soaked in a garlicky tomato sauce before serving) and their praise-worthy version of kokoreç, a popular street food consisting of seasoned offal wrapped in tender lamb intestines.
Established in 1901, Pandeli has served many renowned individuals such as Queen Elizabeth II, Audrey Hepburn and Turkish poet Yahya Kemal. This historic restaurant is Michelin-recommended and a recipient of the Bib Gourmand award in 2024. Tucked away in one of the winding veins of the famous Grand Bazaar, in the Egyptian quarters, a little meandering is required to reach this homey spot.
Atop a flight of stairs, you’ll be met with high ceilings, Turkish turquoise mosaic tiles and small windows that welcome pockets of sunshine and views of the Bosphorus. As for the food, expect quintessentially Turkish grub. We recommend the pickled okra, the tarama (salt-cured fish roe) with hand-cut crisps and the eggplant quiche with slices of grilled lamb kebab.
Where to go
EspressoLab founder Esat Kocadağ turned Türkiye’s first carton factory into one of the hottest destinations for coffee enthusiasts, students and young professionals. A 30-minute drive from Taksim Square, EspressoLab stretches over 6,000 square feet and is home to a roastery, a coffee shop, a bakery, an amphitheatre and community spaces, meeting rooms and the company’s headquarters.
The team at EspressoLab sources fresh coffee beans directly from farmers in Colombia, Kenya and Rwanda and roasts them in-house – a whopping 55 tonnes every month. Their bakery offers freshly baked bagels, croissants and focaccia bread with all the fixings.
Today, EspressoLab has over 200 outlets worldwide, with plans to open in Lebanon and Bahrain next.
GRAND BAZAAR
With over 4,000 shops, Turkiye’s Grand Bazaar is one of the largest covered markets in the world. While you could easily spend the whole day wandering its alleys, barely making a dent in what it has to offer, two stores are especially worth visiting if you’re a foodie:
1 CANKURTARAN GIDA
Stop by this 1964 charcuterie for the local cheeses! Here are some of our favourites:
- Kars Kashar: aged hard cheese made with pure cow’s milk mixed with sheep’s or goat’s milk. As the cheese ages, it becomes flaky and tangy, making it ideal for grating over dishes.
- Tulum cheese: produced in the Erzincan province, this raw goat’s milk cheese is aged in a goat skin casing, which gives it a salty, sharp and funky flavour.
- Kars Gravyer: it takes 36 litres of milk to make one kilogramme of this hard cheese. Rich and milky, it originates from northern Turkey, near the Georgian borders.
- Divle Obruk: the name of this cheese stems from how it’s made. ‘Obruk’ means sinkhole, and this sheep and goat’s milk cheese is aged in a cave, where its exposure to organic bacteria gives it a sharp flavour with earthy notes.
2 HAYFENE SPICE STORE
This family-run spice shop started as an apothecary in 1886. They offer a wide variety of herbs and seasonings, from cumin, chilli flakes, Himalayan salt, saffron and za'atar to dry rubs and spice blends for meats, salads, soups, biryani, tandoori dishes and barbecues, all at competitive prices. With every spice mix purchased, customers receive an informative leaflet explaining their culinary usage, making it easier for home cooks to make the most of their spices. The store also sells a variety of teas, dried fruits, lokum (Turkish delight), perfumes and essential oils.
