When in Parma, tasting and learning about the region’s most celebrated cheese is a must. Tiffany Eslick rounds up the best places to visit while you’re there to get your fill of one of the oldest and richest cheeses in the world
“Always break it, never cut it,” says Paolo Caramaschi as he chips and wigpgles away at three large, spear-shaped wedges of Parmigiano Reggiano with the tip of his coltello a mandorla (a stubby almond-shaped knife). We’re standing outside his family’s San Bernardino dairy, on the outskirts of Parma, which has seen four generations produce wheel upon wheel of the region’s most celebrated cheese for almost a century.
There are two reasons for not trying to cut a piece of Parmi into uniform slices. The first is that the cheese’s dry, granular texture easily crumbles, especially if you’re working with an 36-month aged cheese, or older. The second is that using a specific, traditional knife is what the rules dictate. And, when it comes to Parmigiano Reggiano, rules are there to be followed.
Most importantly, Parmigiano Reggiano is a cheese that can be made with only three precise ingredients (milk – from specific cows that graze on a specific diet, salt and rennet), in a particular process, in a limited area of Italy because of its Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status. It also must mature for a minimum of 12 months to get its official stamp of approval.
There are many more stipulations in place, which are set and governed by a Consortium. And they serve a tremendous purpose – protecting one of the oldest and richest cheeses in the world.
The making of a wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano is fascinating to watch, and I highly recommend visiting the Caramaschi dairy, or any of the more than 300 producers in the region who accept visitors. Trying different varieties, right there, in the Italian countryside, will always be a memorable experience.
It’s possible to taste the cheese’s evolution as it ages: a 12-19 month wedge is harmonious and delicate, sweet and sour with notes of grass and sometimes fruit. From 20-26 months you’ll find more balance in the richness of aromas and flavours; 27-34 month-aged cheese is well-matured, drier, crumblier, stronger and spicier, while 35-45 months of ageing brings out an intense straw yellow, strong acidic crystals, chestnut and meat stock aromas, warm spicy notes and the smell of hay.
You’ll find Parmigiano Reggiano of all ages on all menus at restaurants in Parma – so when in the area… indulge in a cheese fest. Here are top spots to visit:
CROCE DI MALTA
Tucked away in a square in the centre of Parma, right next to the Chiesa di San Tiburzio – a tiny 15th century church – this quaint restaurant with its charming courtyard is where to go when the weather is good. The menu is not expansive, but when everything is made with great seasonal produce, or the best ingredients from the region, you don’t really need a lot of choice. A crispy focaccia with stracciatella di burrata topped with anchovies is the perfect appetizer. The saltiness of the fish complements the fresh sweetness of the cheese. You’re in Lambrusco region, so a bottle of bubbly made with these grapes is imperative – and best enjoyed alongside a generous platter of cold cuts. Any of the pasta dishes will always come with extra Parmigiano Reggiano. For a double whammy, sprinkle it over cappelletti that’s stuffed with mushrooms, lathered in a Parmigiano Reggiano cream, and topped with toasted hazelnuts.
OSTERIA DEI SERVI
For a far more traditional experience (red-and-white checkered tablecloths et al), Osteria Dei Servi serves a huge selection of cheese paired with Balsamic Vinegar of Modena and fruity accompaniments. The variety of aged Parmigiano Reggiano available means you can try everything from 24-month- to even 100-month-old morsels. It’s easy to spend a good 45 minutes biting into crispy torta fritta parcels, dunking nutty, salty cheese into tangy, syrupy vinegar, and relishing their home-made candied mandarin that has a mustardy-flavoured kick.
The restaurant flanks the Piazza Ghiaia in Parma’s historical centre. Yes, it attracts tourists, but locals lunch here, too. Remember it’s easy to get carried away by the appetizers – leave room for the home-made pasta; the pumpkin tortelli alla Parmigiana and tortelli d’erbetta with butter and Parmigiano Reggiano are comforting.
osteriadeiservi.com
SOJ VINO E CUCINA
When in Italy, always sign up to a pasta-making class! And Soj is a cosy, cute corner spot in Parma at which to try one. The origins of tortellini (almost always served in a broth) cause fierce debate between the towns of Bologna and Modena. Parma seemed like neutral ground to test my skills at making this popular dish. The ring-shaped pasta are usually stuffed with meat, cheese, or vegetables – mine were stuffed with pumpkin purée and Parmi, of course. They’re delicate, but easy to make. To these, Soj’s chef added squash broth, sage butter, a decadent pumpkin cream; it tasted like autumn in Italy in one bite!
Insider tip: Soj does an outstanding pear and Parmigiano Reggiano gelato slab that’s smooth, crunchy (thanks to a nut topping) and sublime.
@soj.vinoecucina
INKIOSTRO
This minimalist restaurant sits just outside Parma and offers the antithesis to Osteria dei Servi or Croce di Malta.
Inside its cavernous, monochromatic space, tables are set far apart and illuminated by stark lighting. They’re like stage sets, waiting for the stars (in this case each dish) to appear from the wings, and command attention.
The team at Inkiostro presents boundary-pushing takes on the region’s seasonal and famed produce. My multi-course meal was designed to showcase, you guessed it, Parmigiano Reggiano. Was it too much? No. The versatility of this cheese had the chance to shine.
The lineup included a 24-month aged Parmigiano Reggiano risotto with a chervil and caper crumble; cheesy cabbage pasta lanterns; black salsify, pumpkin and porcini mushrooms with a 36-month aged Parmi carbonara, and dessert which may have had similar ingredients (pear, Parmi and honey) to that at Soj, but was a different taste sensation all together.
ristoranteinkiostro.it
A PERFECT PAIR
The pronounced aromas of Parmigiano Reggiano with a maturation of more than 36 months (ideally) are complemented by the sweetness and slight acidity of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena.
When in Parma, take a day trip to Modena (under an hour’s drive away) and stop in at Acetaia di Giorgio run by the Barbieri family. This business (which exports globally) operates out of the attic of a 19th century villa. They specialise in making authentic balsamic vinegar, naturally – which means all they’re using is a single ingredient: local grape must from Lambrusco and Trebbiano grapes, which is aged over a period of 12 or 25 years, in a series of barrels.
The barrels are crafted from local woods such as oak, chestnut, cherry, mulberry and juniper, which add distinct and complex flavours to the vinegars.
