Paradise is not far

The resort’s rustic villas and suites lie a few steps from white sand beaches and the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. The interiors of my sunset beach suite are understated and tasteful with wooden accents and rattan furniture offset by pops of colour from traditional rugs. I immediately zone in on the welcome tray laden with an array of coconut-based Creole sweets including nougat, cake and jelly, gently spiced handmade chocolates and a bottle of locally made cinnamon-vanilla iced tea, which becomes my drink of choice for the entirety of my stay.

Spices were introduced to the islands through trade and by Indians who arrived in the 17th and 18th centuries. A unique mix of cultures from East Africa, India, France, China and Britain has shaped the Seychelles’ Creole cuisine to what it is today. “Curry powder, turmeric, lots of fresh green and red chillies, curry leaves, cloves and cinnamon, both the leaves and bark, are essential ingredients in our cooking”, explains Perry Poris, junior sous chef, with whom I spend an afternoon learning how to make a Creole garden curry, accompanied by pan seared fish steaks and a simple tomato, onion and fresh coriander salad.

With sweet potatoes, bottle gourd, red and yellow bell peppers as well as aubergines and tomatoes, it promises to be a flavourful and colourful main. Under Perry’s experienced eye, I set about sautéing minced garlic, ginger and finely sliced onions. I throw in a medley of spices, their fragrance filling the air as Perry continues to share interesting snippets about his traditional cuisine. Even though Indians introduced spices to the islands’ native population, cardamom remains largely absent from most Seychellois kitchens today. Coconut milk, the final addition to the curry, doesn’t come as a surprise. “From starters and salads to mains and desserts, we use a lot of coconut in our dishes. And we use everything from the leaves to the roots,” says Perry, “We even use the palm heart, which is an expensive vegetable in the Seychelles, since the whole coconut palm tree has to be brought down to harvest it.” Our meal that afternoon looks simple, but the flavours, so familiar to me, warm my belly and heart.

It’s easy for guests to explore the island on their own, on cycles assigned to each villa and suite. I set off before breakfast one morning, cycling past fields of coconut trees and through well wooded pockets of forest that offer much needed shade from the tropical sun. Desroches attracts wedge-tailed shearwaters for a few months during the year. These nocturnal birds build underground nests on certain parts of the island so it’s best to stick to designated paths. Interestingly, they have a call that sounds like a crying baby. Imagine hearing that in the dark.

I do catch sight of one outside The Lighthouse that evening. Open on certain days of the week from 6-10pm, this restaurant is the place to enjoy brilliant sunsets and succulent grilled seafood and dry-aged meats. The meal here begins with a trio of amuse bouche – hollow beetroot cups filled with salmon and topped with caviar have a sweet-salty balance that is surprisingly pleasant; the mild sweetness of fresh fig complements the delicate bitterness of the thinly sliced aubergine in which its wrapped; and the final is a classic combination of watermelon and feta cheese. The highlight of the night is the grilled whole job fish served with sweet potato mash, cured green papaya and sundried tomato-feta salad. The mild seasoning on the fish allows its clean, wholesome flavour to shine while the sides provide varying textures ranging from creamy to crunchy. Dessert is the closing act and it screams tropical flavours – silky smooth mango flan topped with refreshing coconut sorbet and a deconstructed lemon tart, which marries bright citrus notes with sweet airy meringue to produce a piece of art on the plate.

The following day I return to Mahé to visit the Four Seasons Resort Seychelles, which sprawls across a lush granitic hill. Nothing could have prepared me for this verdant haven with luxurious treehouses, nestled into the hillside’s jungly foliage, overlooking the semi-circular Petite Anse Bay. The setting sun is putting on a brilliant show, its orange rays reaching into the master bedroom almost like a warm welcome.

A sudden tropical downpour just before dinner, adds an element of drama to the already spectacular landscape, with the calls of frogs and cicadas filling the air. The dinner menu at Zez is ideal for sharing with hearty portions of Singaporean and Chinese dishes such as Singapore-style crab with chilli sauce and steamed buns and wok-fried Cantonese tiger prawns. I opt for spicy edamame and a refreshingly crunchy wakame and cucumber salad, followed by generously plump and juicy prawn dumplings that fill my mouth with a delicate sweetness. Even though this fills me up, there’s always room for dessert, especially when there’s mango sticky rice on the menu. Zez’s version replaces fresh mango with mango sorbet, which sits atop a bed of sticky coconut rice.

A walk around the property reveals mango, jackfruit, star fruit, papaya and cinnamon trees as well as flowering plants such as ginger. Birds like the delightful red fody (it looks like an orange sparrow) flit about the shrubbery. There’s even an atmospheric ruin, its stone walls covered in moss and knotted tree roots. Known as foumba which means “old house” in Creole, it is often the venue of choice for intimate events such as weddings.

“This property used to be a fruit plantation,” says senior executive chef Carlos Rodriguez, whom I meet at Kannel restaurant. His team uses the fruit harvested from trees on site whenever possible. “We also make sure food waste from our kitchens doesn’t end up in landfills. Instead, it is collected and given to local farms where it is used as pig feed…any excess food is donated to local communities.” And an in-house water filtration unit has eliminated the need for single-use plastic bottles across the resort.

Kannel’s lunchtime menu features Creole dishes while dinner service focuses on Mediterranean flavours using seasonal ingredients. It is here that I finally get to savour a palm heart salad that combines finely sliced palm heart, diced tomato and cucumber, tossed in a passionfruit dressing for a tangy citrus hit with a hint of sweetness. A meal here would be incomplete without the grilled seafood platter, which unites a fresh, locally caught selection of juicy prawns, lobster, scallops, mussels and fish served with seared lemons and a variety of dipping sauces.

On my last day I decide to do a mountain meditation. Besides calming the mind, it turns out to be a great way to work off calories, since it involves a challenging hike to the highest point on the property. Led by a member of the spa team, the gentle breeze and distant whoosh of the waves below make it easy to fully immerse into the experience.

My time here is all too short, and I promise to return to the Seychelles to discover more of its fascinating culture and breathtaking landscapes.

For more information, visit fourseasons.com