…and the world’s your oyster, especially when it comes to food! The Thai capital is thriving with the likes of list-topping, award-winning restaurants such as Gaggan, Le Du, Potong and Sühring reigning supreme. Tiffany Eslick spent a week with their trailblazing chefs to bring you a list of where find the best, bold flavours and progressive dishes
THE GREATEST SHOWMAN
You may eat rat brain at chef Gaggan Anand’s eponymous experience. Roll with it. This is a “trust bite” – and trust is something you need to do when immersed in what is arguably one of today’s most sensory culinary spectacles.
Run like a hit Broadway show, “dinner” at Gaggan’s consists of two acts, 22 experimental bites, a powerful playlist you will want to Shazam, while trying to cram said bites into your mouth in one go. There are dazzling light displays, contrasts, anticipatory emotions, and provoking stories told by the chef himself, a cheeky, natural raconteur.
There are also three “don’ts” to respect: talking when you shouldn’t be doing so, smoking, and taking phone calls. Rightly so.
Gaggan and his “rebels” have put an immense amount of work into this immersive experience, and, more importantly, their complex cookery.
“We will destroy your perception of fine dining,” says the chef.
I say, relish his trippy ride.
Do all the theatrics overwhelm the actual culinary offering? No. Surprisingly, they go hand in hand. And what is the style of cuisine you’ll be tasting? That’s a difficult one.
“My culture is Indian, my soul has become Thai, and my inspiration will always be Japanese,” explains Gaggan. This sums it up best – however, don’t forget that a dedication to seasonality and sustainability, underpins all that.
His famed spherical spiced yoghurt explosion kicks off the proceedings, and pops like crazy in your mouth. The caramelised milk pie tartlet with ethical foie gras, Irish coffee and cardamom is smooth and delightful. There’s a crunchy, tangy pomegranate “paper” that’s very clever and a creamy, strawberry-uni pie. The team unwraps individual portions of steaming barramundi with ume (Japanse plum) chutney from hot banana leaves for each diner. And soon after this, you’ll be picking at quail Chettinad that’s marinated in 18 spices and sizzling over aromatic sandalwood in front of you. A jackfruit “rat meat” satay kebab with turmeric oil that’s almost radioactive in luminosity is delicious. Oops, have I given the game away? In that case, the rat blood latte should not cause alarm!
In fact, if I remember correctly, it was during this course that some of us felt compelled to get up and dance. I’ll also never forget the moment there was a blackout, Rammstein was turned up and Gaggan came out armed with a blow torch.
The food is matched perfectly by rare biodynamic wines curated by sommelier Vladimir Kojic.
And when you find yourself licking passionfruit chilli flames off a plate, you’ll know you’re part of a devoted community, who are gaga for Gaggan. There’s a waitlist to join the tribe (this will be even more difficult since his recent No 17 ranking on the World’s 50 Best list this June), so make sure you book in advance.
KEEPING IT IN THE FAMILY
Bangkok’s model brand ambassador, chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn (who worked at the likes of Eleven Madison Park, and Jean-Georges in the US) and his managing-director brother Tam, are behind a hat-trick of restaurants that stand out for their exceptional interpretations of Thai cuisine: Le Du, Nusara and Baan. These establishments share common threads, yet each possesses its own unique identity and culinary philosophy.
Le Du, with its Michelin-starred status, No 1 ranking on Asia’s 50 Best list and recent ranking of No 15 on the World’s 50 Best list, merges the flavours of traditional Thai ingredients with a modern, French-inspired approach. The seasonal four- or six-course tasting menu takes you on a journey through regional dishes, creatively reimagined with finesse and precision. Ton’s poached banana prawn with three different kinds of seaweed from across Thailand and a beetroot, chilli and fish sauce sorbet is uplifting. His version of khao chae – a customary dish for summer, which he usually doesn’t like, is noteworthy. Instead of jasmine boiled rice with a host of deep-fried sides, he presents a minimalistic dish with organic jasmine ice cream, a shrimp, sauteed fish and meat ball with chilli and radish. And perhaps the most stand-out dish in terms of colour is his giant butterflied lake prawn, with a sauce made from prawn head and tom yum spices, served alongside red and black rice from Chiang Mai.
Nusara, a new entry on the World’s 50 Best list at No 74, sees chef Ton returning to his roots with a more traditional menu of authentic Thai dishes elegantly presented over 12 courses. Named after the brothers’ late grandmother, the restaurant is a heartfelt tribute to their culinary inspiration. Its intimate setting, with windows framing unrivalled views of the Wat Pho temple complex, exudes a sophisticated atmosphere.
Baan, the laid-back sister restaurant to Le Du, embraces family recipes in a modern yet inviting ambiance. The focus here is on robust and satisfying dishes, using high-quality ingredients sourced from Fairtrade, sustainable suppliers around the country. From its signature river prawns with mung bean noodles and tod mun jung (a deep fried pancake with shrimp and plum sauce to a five-spiced egg stew with chillies, lemongrass, lime, fish sauce and a bounty of Chinese herbs (a nod to the brothers’ heritage); this is where to go for comforting flavours of home-cooked meals reminiscent of what Ton and Tam grew up eating.
What unites these three culinary ventures is chef Ton’s commitment to elevating Thai cuisine. With the brothers’ growing restaurant empire and accolades, chef Ton and Tam continue to shape Bangkok’s culinary scene, bridging the gap between past and present, tradition and innovation.
A LOVE STORY
At Ms. Maria & Mr. Singh, imagination meets gastronomy in yet another playful realm of chef Gaggan Anand. This Mexican-Indian restaurant (which is located above his Experience) celebrates love, both in its fictional narrative and on the plate. Inside, its dazzling interiors are illuminated by neon lights – one with the message that “Love should never be mild”. Is this indicative of the food you’ll eat? – Yes! Gaggan’s menu is a riot of colour and bold flavours.
The ingredients from both countries’ culinary pantries complement each other beautifully – and the way it is done is through the chef and his team’s skills.
For me, it was love from first bite of the punchy papdi chaat. And just like the panipuri shot that followed, it was a burst of tastes that must be consumed in one bite. The marinated hamachi ceviche with a crispy prawn fritter, chipotle leche de tigre, pickled cucumber, grilled octopus, yam and finger lime is one of many examples showing Gaggan’s use of contrasting tastes and textures. The grilled jackfruit and mole is comforting, and the corn tortilla with chana masala and mixed cheese is smoked over rosemary and wonderfully earthy.
THE ALCHEMIST
When entering Potong, neither the significance of its five-storey building, nor the marvel of the multi-course meal that awaits you is immediately apparent. This restaurant, helmed by chef Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij, takes up the entirety of a lovingly renovated Sino-Portuguese building that’s been in her family for generations. Dinner starts in the ground floor bar, in what was for years their Chinese medicine apothecary. As you sip on honey-lemon kombucha with marigold flowers, surrounded by medicinal memorabilia, it’s quickly apparent how the evening filled with storytelling and innovation is about to unfold.
Like chef Ton, Pam grew up in Bangkok before moving to the US, where she cut her teeth at Jean-Georges. Since returning to her hometown, she’s gone on to win multiple accolades, is a favourite judge on Top Chef Thailand and has earned the respect of many. Her restaurant was the first ever recipient of Michelin’s Thailand Opening of the Year award; it holds 35th spot on Asia’s 50 Best list and has come in at a new entry of 88 in the world.
Pam shows others how it should be done. She empowers her team, presents her country’s cuisine in a progressive manner, pushes herself beyond perfection, has infectious passion and has not let fame get to her in the slightest bit.
Her food focuses on five elements: salt, acid, spice, texture and the Maillard effect – a chemical reaction of reducing sugars to give browned foods flavour. This all plays out over a 20-course symbolic symphony to savour.
Everything looks beautiful. There’s a salted-plum leaf with chrysanthemum honey; an appetiser series in the form of an ode to the palm – it’s juice, seeds, meat and sugar; a blue crab with mud crab roe emulsion, black pepper jam, crab butter bread and crab broth; pomfret rillettes, and the crowning glory: a 14-day, five-spiced, dry-aged duck with accompaniments. I’d go back for this dish alone – which exemplifies beak-to-tail cooking.
Pam admits that mastering the perfect duck has taken many attempts. “My recipe is very particular. The duck must be around two months old and no more than 2kg – I have tried small ones, and the ratio of skin to meat is not right. Bigger ones are too fatty, the fat doesn’t render well and the skin won’t puff up,” she explains.
A meal at Potong ends in style with pastry chef, Kanin Buntanbut’s pomelo sorbet trio and a remake of Thai-Chinese street desserts. And throughout the evening, sommelier Sacha Di Silvestre’s thoughtful selections should not be missed.
OUTLIERS
Nestled in a leafy, lofty neighbourhood, Sühring is one of those dreamy dining destinations where you sit back and settle in for a lengthy lunch (or dinner) that you hope will never end. Housed in a minimalist, tropical-garden home with four different dining spaces, it was founded by identical brothers Thomas and Mathias – aka “the twins”. Together, they present a tasting menu with precision that showcases a modern interpretation of traditional German cuisine through playful, innovative and faultless dishes that are in tune with Europe’s seasons. From the first plate, prepare to throw any perceptions of what “German” food is out of Sühring’s glasshouse window. The twins do smart and conceptual cooking at its best.
A series of appetisers start the journey. The “Hawaii Toast” which is reminiscent of retro German party canapes with ham, cheese, pineapple and sticky, glacé cherries is a cheeky rendition – as is the brother’s bespoke Enleta wafer. Theirs replaces a hazelnut chocolate filling with foie gras and is paired with a surprisingly pleasant apricot vinegar drink. A course of smoked sturgeon with a generous helping of AKI Imperial Ossetra caviar is seriously sublime.
The duck liver and smoked eel terrine looks like art, with a priceless taste to match. And there’s a good amount of fresh seafood – the lobster with spring peas, white asparagus and a smoked-mussel stuffed morel vies for my top spot. But the brothers’ Spätzle and truffle, a delightful combination of egg pasta, mushrooms, Alpine mountain cheese and shaved white Alba truffle gets a lot of attention, too. Sweet dishes shine just as much as the savoury mains, and to end there’s eggnog (just like the twins’ granny made it) and a colourful collection of delicate praline chocolates.
Sühring has garnered 2 Michelin stars – although it deserves a third; it holds the No 7 spot on Asia’s 50 Best list and was recently announced No 72 in the world.
BANGKOK’S SWEETHEART
This is one of the few mall-based eateries I’ve ever recommended, but Kyo Roll En at Central Embassy, has made me do it. Dej Kewkacha is behind this Japanese dessert café chain, and at this outlet, with its intimate 13-seater Kyo Bar,
you have to try his omakase menu that evolves with the seasons.
The self-taught pâtissier uses the best of Japanese and Thai ingredients, combined with contemporary pastry techniques, to create well-balanced, savoury-sweet desserts. The confluence of Dej’s ingredients is genius and experimental: take his “Off White” concoction of asparagus, custard apple, coconut and seasonal yacon (a type of tuber) with a fleur de sel and black pepper meringue as an example. He knows what he’s doing with freshness and textures – you’ll see that in his pink guava granita topped with grapefruit and pomelo, pink salt, pink peppercorns and ginger torch flowers. And the way he transforms traditional treats into modern masterpieces that still deliver on nostalgic comfort is a skill; cue his mango sticky rice – a delicate parcel with kheer and malai topped with lime zest, fennel pollen and lemon oil.
Each dish in the degustation could easily stand-out on its own, yet all work together in harmony leaving you happy – and not because of a sugar high.
Bangkok’s street-food scene is vibrant, tantalising, varied and somewhat bewildering. Navigate its maze of mouthwatering delicacies at these four standout spots:
First, there's the legendary Supinya “Jay Fai” Junsuta – that begoggled street food chef you may have seen on Netflix – who has rightly earned her reputation as one of Bangkok’s best. Watching her conquer volcanically hot woks over cauldrons spitting out flames is impressive. Do this from afar, and don’t attempt any photos. She’s the only person cooking and has to focus. You’re going to her Michelin-starred shophouse restaurant for the famous omelette, a crispy golden-brown delight stuffed to the brim with blue swimmer crab. But also try her scrumptious spicy “drunken noodles”.
For heart-warming noodle dishes, there are two great, but different options: Rung Rueang Noodles and Wattana Panich. Both boast Michelin Bib Gourmands. The former operates on a make-your-own concept. Four noodle choices await – tom yum soup, tom yum no soup, clear soup, or no soup. These can be customised with egg noodles, glass noodles, thick rice noodles, or vermicelli and topped with fish balls, fish cakes and more. Meanwhile, the latter is where time-honoured traditions have produced one of the world's oldest soups. For over 50 years, generations of the same family have diligently simmered their renowned beef stock in a giant pot. The broth is carefully stored overnight and rejuvenated each morning with fresh water. It’s used in a variety of dishes, like their aromatic beef hot pot, which is great with freshly made flat rice noodles, and a rich goat stew.
Noi Seafood (part of the Huai Kwang Night Market) is where to go for a late-night feast. Open until 4am, it’s bustling throughout the evening with mostly locals who are there for simple, live seafood that is cooked exceptionally well. Over order the giant river prawns, the chilli crab and the black clams. Be daring and try the barbecued duck beaks, too!
