Rhubarb that’s tricked or ‘forced’ into an early harvest is a specialty from Yorkshire in the UK and it’s in stores now! We speak to our producer Annabel Makin-Jones about growing this hot pink vegetable and what makes it so special.
The mystical rhubarb triangle is a nine square-mile area in the UK’s West Yorkshire region. It is here, that from January to March, a handful of growers preserve the age-old English tradition of cultivating forced rhubarb. Grown by candlelight, striking fuchsia pink stalks of rhubarb are harvested by hand and prized for their delicate, sweet-tart flavour.
Although technically a vegetable, rhubarb is treated as a fruit. Most commonly baked into a pie or as little tartlets, rhubarb also pairs well with custard, in crumble bars, as a stewed topping over panna cotta, or chequered over an upside-down cake.
Here, Annabel Makin-Jones, our proud Yorkshire producer and the face behind Annabel’s Deliciously British, tells us more…
Tell us a little bit about Annabel’s Deliciously British
I am an English farmer who started growing strawberries at home 16 years after I returned from university. Two years ago, I decided to create a brand called Annabelle’s Deliciously British, so we could really champion British produce, showcasing how we grow it and all the great things we do.
What sets your produce apart from other growers in the region?
I like to think of myself as a mindful farmer. We are giving back to the environment and also supporting charities with what we do. We support The Prince’s Trust and harvest everything in rainwater. Our home and offices are run on solar energy. We use a hydroponic system to grow strawberries, so the topsoil remains untouched. We limit the use of pesticides, by introducing bugs that prey on the ones that attack our crops. By doing this we create an ecosystem for them, and at the same time they’re working for us. We have our own colony of bees that pollinate the strawberries, and we obtain honey from their hives In addition, all our packaging is also recyclable or biodegradable. I feel it’s a woman’s attention to detail coupled with the passion I have for my work that really stands out. It’s about producing something that is honest, loyal and slightly nostalgic in a way because it’s so very British. When people buy it, they know that they are buying a great product for their family to take home.
How did you start growing forced rhubarb?
My grandparents were rhubarb growers and it’s very niche. I decided to work with a grower who was retiring to continue the business.
What goes behind the scenes when growing forced rhubarb – and when is it in season in the Northern hemisphere?
You’ll find forced rhubarb during this early part of the year. It’s grown in pitch darkness in very low sheds that are heated. We never turn on the lights. We go in with a candle because the sticks of rhubarb grow towards the light. The darkness is what makes it tender as that doesn’t create chlorophyll.
What is your favourite part of the job and the growing process?
For me, it is the whole process. It’s taking something and elevating it; producing it to the best possible quality in the best possible way. It’s very exciting for me to know that the rhubarb growing in my shed right now will be on your shelves next week. I am taking a product that is a specialty all the way in Yorkshire and it’s coming to Spinneys in Dubai.
What’s your favourite way to prepare and eat forced rhubarb?
It’s a really great fruit because it is quite diverse and works well in both sweet and savoury dishes, if you know what to do with it. It has to be cooked, as it is quite bitter when raw. I make an eggy bread, or an eggy croissant with a rhubarb compote and custard; I use it over cheesecake or stew it with sugar and have it with yoghurt, honey and nuts for breakfast.