The path

WAYS TO WELLNESS

Let me see your tongue,” says Kimberly Rose Kneier, Director of Wellness, acupuncturist and Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) practitioner at COMO Shambhala Estate in Ubud, Bali. This is happening during an initial consultation soon after my arrival at the property. I’m here for five nights, following an Integrated Wellness Path. All guests who sign onto any of the five programmes offered here, will do the same, so that a personalised plan, blending ancient traditions and modern diagnostics, can be put in place for diet, therapies and activities.

Tentatively, I stick out my tongue. “I see teeth marks,” she says gently. “This indicates a Spleen-Qi deficiency. It means there’s dampness in your body.”

The latter, as I learn, isn’t just about humidity in the air; it’s an imbalance that can leave the body feeling sluggish and heavy. As if on cue, she points out the purplish hue of my tongue. “This shows stagnation,” Kimberly adds. Stagnation, she explains, can manifest as pain, stiffness, or a general feeling of being ‘stuck’ – physically or emotionally.

Next, Kimberly reaches for my wrist. “I’m going to feel your pulses,” she says, explaining that there are 28 classical pulses in TCM, each offering insights into the body’s inner workings. She gently presses and evaluates their rhythm and quality. “Yours are a bit slippery,” she notes, which, she explains, correlates with what she’s just diagnosed.

Dampness in TCM mirrors sensitivities for kapha (dosha) in Ayurveda. And an imbalance in the latter often manifests as lethargy, water retention, slow digestion and a propensity for sinus attacks. I’ve been diagnosed before as having a body type that holds onto heaviness, both physically and energetically. Both philosophies agree that it’s evidently time for a reset. In terms of diet, for me, this means cutting out foods that are heavy and mucus-producing – no dairy, gluten, refined sugars and saturated fats. At the Estate, the focus will be on an elimination diet, removing the aforementioned ingredients and other inflammatory culprits such as corn, soya, eggs and alcohol. The thought of not eating enough doesn’t cross my mind as COMO’s aim is never deprivation, rather rejuvenation.

“We recommend everyone should do this elimination diet as part of a gentle cleanse for three to four weeks or once or twice a year, regardless of whether they suffer from any symptoms,” says Kimberly. “Simply by eliminating these foods our bodies are able to detoxify and rest from toxin and hormonal overloads from food. You have to remember that our bodies

are detox machines. They take what they can use and get rid of the rest. When we put in good fuel, we can start the restoration process.”

She goes on to explain her R.E.A.L diet that simplifies healthy eating with four principles: “R” for foods resembling those found in nature, such as hormone-free meats; “E” for eliminating highly processed, problematic foods; “A” for achieving optimal nutrition through a rainbow diet rich in fruits, vegetables and nutrient-dense leafy greens; and “L” for incorporating fasting to extend time without food.

The last point in the R.E.A.L. diet speaks to intermittent fasting. Up until now, I’ve not given this approach much thought. Perhaps, it is just about being at the right place at the right time, but the way Kimberly describes its benefits, and practicality, resonates with me. What’s more, learning how this practice can be a powerful tool when aligned with the natural rhythms of one’s menstrual cycle is interesting.

Having visited various wellness retreats around the world, it has not always been my experience to receive as customised an approach as I do at COMO Shambhala Estate. One size does not fit all, and here it’s soon evident that the focus is about long-term lifestyle change and helping guests achieve something more sustainable than an easily forgotten health boost.

FOOD IS MEDICINE

At the Estate, food is more than sustenance – it is part of a philosophy rooted in the belief that nourishment is key to healing. And this ethos manifests in every dish, crafted with the highest-quality, locally sourced ingredients designed to retain their natural ‘life force,’ by often being served raw or with minimal delay from field to fork. With this in mind, the emphasis is on plant-based dishes rich in vitamins and antioxidants, but organic meats and responsibly caught fish are on offer for a balanced approach.

There are two on-site restaurants. Kudus House, set in a centuries-old wooden Javanese structure, serves Indonesian cuisine. Overlooking the jungle canopy, I enjoy breakfast here each morning, starting with golden jamu (an Indonesian elixir with turmeric, tamarind and coconut nectar) and a daily fresh pressed juice. Other favourites included ‘real’ toast with almond and flax seeds, crushed avocado, tomatoes and a topping of cucumber swirls as well as the bubur beras merah – a red rice porridge, with chicken bone broth.

The restaurant’s neighbour, Glow, has a more contemporary aesthetic with its sleek, open-kitchen set-up. Sitting at sunset, just before the cicadas quieten down, I look forward to early dinners each evening. I relish the likes of pomelo and green mango salad with a zingy lemongrass, red chilli and lime dressing; a spiced roast pumpkin, chickpea and spinach stew with creamy tahini; and a filling braised eggplant and lentil moussaka with an almond sauce.

The retreat’s food philosophy is brought to life further during raw cooking classes led by executive chef Dewa Wijaya. A master of his craft with decades at COMO, chef Dewa shares his journey with me.

“I wanted to be a doctor to help people,” he reveals, “but I realised that food could be medicine, too.” His knowledge of ingredients, and their health-enhancing compounds is impressive, and, more importantly, driven from genuine curiosity.

I learn techniques for retaining the maximum nutritional value of fruits and vegetables, such as preparing raw dishes or cooking at low temperatures; that I need a dehydrator (I’ll find any excuse to stock up on new kitchen equipment); and about fermenting. He and his team make their own kombucha, kimchi, sauerkraut, apple cider vinegar and coconut kefir… We make three dishes in just under an hour, including a crunchy garden green salad with ginger-miso dressing, and maki rolls with tofu, shiitake, cucumber, pine nuts and jicama. The latter is a new find, something like a cross between a potato and pear. It works well as a replacement for sushi rice and is good for gut bacteria. For dessert, it’s a raw mango and passion fruit cheesecake with a macadamia and coconut crust that’s silky and, amazingly, sugar-free. “I keep everything healthy,” says chef Dewa. “But I make it good!”

THE POWER OF TOUCH

At COMO’s serene spa, fountains burble, aromatic oils linger in the air, and therapists, whose skills are both refined and intuitive, guide you through an interesting menu of treatments designed to heal and rejuvenate.

As part of my journey, I experience a variety of therapies, each addressing different aspects of my physical and mental well-being. The Signature Massage, one I find consistently excellent across COMO properties, is deeply nurturing. It follows an invigorating dry body brush and a relaxing bath, providing an ideal start to my week of healing.

For detoxification, I undergo a manual lymphatic drainage massage, a light and precise treatment where the pressure of the therapist’s touch is no heavier than the weight of an egg. This therapy helps the body release toxins over three to five days, giving my system a gentle reset.

Steeped in Ayurvedic tradition, the Abhyanga massage is another highlight. Warm, medicinal oil is rhythmically applied to energise my body and improve circulation. I cleanse my skin with a spice rub, under an outdoor shower.

I try a Taksu massage for the first time – this taps into the Balinese concept of energy exchange, combining firm pressure to relieve tension with an invigorating boost to circulation.

To address my lingering lower back pain, Kimberly administers two tailored sessions of acupuncture. From experience, I know those tiny needles can work wonders. And I try contrast therapy – leaping out of an 8-degree ice bath into the sauna multiple times! This is said to improve circulation, reduce inflammation, alleviate pain, boost recovery and enhance relaxation. I leave both sessions on a high – and sleep more deeply.

JUST BREATHE

During a private session at an open-air yoga pavilion with Prasanth Vayanakathu, Ayurvedic Doctor and COMO Shambhala Wellness Manager, I am reminded of the profound importance of breath and its power to ground, energise and relax us. Prasanth teaches me two transformative techniques to work with this: Bellow Breathing and Retention Breathing. The former is a dynamic practice of forceful inhalations and exhalations, paired with rhythmic arm movements, performed in three energising rounds that awaken the body. In contrast, Retention Breathing is a meditative, mindful exercise, involving slow, measured inhalations, gentle holds and lengthened exhalations to instil a deep sense of calm.

The connection between movement and breath deepens further during a meridian stretch Qigong class with Kimberly. This practice, with its roots in TCM, martial arts, and philosophy, focuses on rhythmic breathing, seamlessly coordinated with slow, fluid, Tai Chi-style movements. Each motion feels deliberate as Kimberly guides us through her session that centres on the elements of fire, earth, metal, water, and wood, and their organ correspondences. It’s fun “getting my tiger on”, curling my fingers into fierce claws and channeling feline power. This, and subsequent movements feel strong, focused and surprisingly graceful.

BLESSED, AND BLISSED OUT

Guarded by Ganesh, a sacred spring on the Estate overflows into bathing pools carved into natural rock. Below these cool, silky baths, the Ayung River powers through the landscape, not with a gentle murmur but with unstoppable energy, its sound vibrating through towering trees, radiating a positivity so palpable it feels as though it grips you. It’s in this remarkable setting that I choose to meditate, privately, after a beautiful Balinese cleansing ceremony I attend with a local priest.

My eyes drink in the green of the lush foliage around me. I feel light, happy, full of intention and, for a good few minutes, present. Something Kimberly says comes to mind: “This property is magical, as is Bali. Be careful what you wish you for, because it’s going to come true.”

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