Fans of Netflix’s hit series Chef’s Table will no doubt recognise avant-garde chef Will Goldfarb. From his episode airing in 2018 to now, however, Will’s Bali-based restaurant Room4Dessert has evolved into something else… something more than just a culinary hotspot. Now, it’s a destination that holistically combines nature, community and, of course, dessert.
Initially an à la carte restaurant, Room4Dessert transitioned into a tasting menu-only experience in 2018. But the transition wasn’t without challenges. “We were too busy because we had five seatings [a night] across 30 seats. So, at the end of 2018 – which was a big year for us – we said we are going to close.” Redesigning the experience to make it better for guests was on the cards at that point. “We’re a 150 square metres restaurant and we added 1,000 square metres of garden,” he shares. By April 2019, they reopened with sprawling north and south gardens and a revamped format that included a walk through the forest, snacks at the counter and desserts in the dining area. “It’s become this extraordinary experience where you can spend time and relax in a luxurious way because you have space and time,” he shares.
With everything that’s now offered at Room4Dessert, people certainly have time to relax. Powder Room opened in 2023 as a candy store, reinventing what used to be a youth hostel, while Shelter Island opened as a renovated guest house. Will adds, “Shelter Island is 100 metres north of the restaurant, Powder Room is 50 metres from the restaurant. Then we have our food forest in the back, our new Miyawaki Forest, which replaced our first medicinal plants garden. So we have this amazing universe where you can stay with us, dine with us, breakfast with us, learn with us.”
Will Goldfarb
Red, one of Will’s iconic desserts
It’s clear to see that innovation is important to Will and he kept going even during the pandemic. With international tourism to Bali at a standstill, he decided to keep his team busy – all of whom he retained during the lockdown. From March 2020 until May 2022, which is when international tourists were allowed to return to Indonesia, he worked on expanding the gardens, creating a pop-up deli and launching in-person classes in 2021, which has become what is now called the R4D Academy. This is a programme that invites participants from all walks of life to hone their pastry skills. He jokes, “We designed it so anyone could come. Of course, that’s always risky when you say anyone can come because then anyone does.” So far, participants have ranged from home cooks to three-Michelin-star chefs, but Will emphasises the inclusivity of the programme. “Where it really seems to hit the sweet spot is an advanced beginner or amateur who has studied or cooked a lot. But the mix has been so broad.” The R4D Academy, however, offers more than just baking tips. From eight-hour cooking days to sustainability workshops and even forest retreats, it’s a deep dive into the art of dessert-making and sustainable practices.
Sustainability is truly a cornerstone of Will’s philosophy. His restaurant gardens now feature a Miyawaki forest, a Japanese natural reforestation technique to restore native ecosystems. “In 18 months, we’ve seen more than five metres of growth. Our goal is to seamlessly be part of our community, taking care of the people, the earth and using the natural world to spread magic and joy through our desserts,” he says. This approach to sustainability isn’t just for show but is deeply embedded in every aspect of his work. Whether it’s sourcing local ingredients or collaborating with experts such as Indian environmentalist Shubhendu Sharma, Will is committed to making a positive impact.
An element of sustainability is its relationship with community and the connection between food and well-being. “There was no distinction between food and medicine historically. Now, if you’re not healthy because your diet is stripped of the things that keep you well, then this is not a sustainable system,” he says.
R4D Academy accepts amateurs as well as professional chefs.
The sugar refinery is a dessert taught at R4D Academy
In Bali, sustainability isn’t just a buzzword – it’s life. Goldfarb points to the island’s traditions as a guiding principle for his restaurant. “The Balinese principle of Tri Hita Karana, which is about staying in harmony with the world around you. Then, there’s naya, which is about cooperation and how communities are intertwined and how people take care of each other.” But while he celebrates Balinese traditions, Goldfarb is careful not to claim them as his own. “I can’t be the voice for Bali, but I can be a champion,” he says.
He adds with a smile, “Our job is to make cookies and ice cream and to show people a good time in our restaurant. But we do think it’s important to do things for a reason and tell a story that’s really meaningful.”
When asked where his relentless drive and passion for the culinary arts stem from, Will candidly admits, “I have no idea, but it’s a great question.” Reflecting on his journey so far, he adds that the ups and downs of the industry have shaped his resilience. “It’s easy when things are good, but I think we’ve always done really, really well when things are bad. Sometimes it just takes a bit longer.”
For him, the love of being in restaurants, teaching and sharing knowledge is everything, and despite his demanding lifestyle, he exudes enthusiasm for what he does. “As tired as I might feel physically, mentally I’m super fresh and relaxed. If anything, I’m more excited now than when we started because I have so much more to do. I can only do this for another 30, 40 years, so it’s time to hustle.”
