Unconventional and unapologetic, chef Akmal Anuar is out to break the mould – especially with his latest venture, Osteria Funkcoolio. With a track record that includes 3 Fils and Goldfish Sushi & Yakitori, this Singaporean chef chats about his creative process, legacy and the future
Creating home-grown concepts is not unknown to chef Akmal Anuar, who’s been out to reinvent expectations since 3 Fils opened in late 2016. He’s since continued that trend with the likes of Goldfish Sushi & Yakitori and Otoro Abu Dhabi, and consulting on menus of restaurants like 11 Woodfire and 53 Midtown in New York, among many others. So, his unconventional approach to food is well known, and he stays true to his personal brand with his latest venture, Osteria Funkcoolio.
It was intriguing that Akmal decided to open an Italian restaurant, but he says that Funkcoolio was the first restaurant concept he had – even before opening Goldfish in 2021. He reveals, “I was trained by an Italian chef from Alba, but I never really showcased that part of my skillset.
Akmal adds, “I wanted something rebellious, unapologetic – not your Italian grandmother’s way of cooking. So, you cannot tell me [I’ve used] the wrong pasta. That’s the whole point – it has to be wrong. We call it ‘itameshi’ cuisine. In Japan, ‘itameshi’ refers to Italian cuisine, where ‘ita’ refers to Italy, and ‘meshi’ means cuisine.”
Akmal was inspired also from his time working with Yasuhiro Sasajima who is behind Il Ghiottone in Kyoto – he’s a Japanese chef who trained in Italy but chose to use local Japanese ingredients in his dishes. This fusion lightens traditional Italian dishes by using Japanese techniques and seafood. Akmal notes. “An Italian family ordered a classic Piedmontese dish, vitello tonnato. They said, ‘it looks classic but tastes different’. That’s the whole point. This is because I used Japanese bonito instead of Italian tuna and cooked the veal in dashi.”
It’s clear that Akmal brings a lot of himself into his dishes at Funkcoolio’s menu, and he calls out two in particular that he says are his personal favourites. One is capellini Sakura ebi, a dish he’s been cooking since 2008. Made with capellini noodles, crustacean oil, shio kombu, garlic and pink Sakura shrimp, he’s had versions of it across his restaurants. The second he highlights is his take on his childhood favourite: kway teow. Akmal’s reimagination is with squid ink tagliolini and using oyster sauce instead of traditional Italian ingredients. “No one uses oyster sauce in pasta,” he laughs. “But it’s my restaurant, so I can do whatever I want.”
Akmal’s rebellious spirit extends beyond the food to every aspect of the venue – the name included. “Funkcoolio is ‘funk’ and ‘coolio’. It’s just a funky, cool place. That’s it,” explains Akmal. “Funk means old school – burgundy chairs, classic curtains, and more. Cool is not something you can make. It happens when you go through an experience that is authentic. You cannot pretend.”
This restaurant isn’t Akmal’s only project. With several ventures lined up, including consulting for the Bulldozer Group in Paris and opening an Abu Dhabi location for Goldfish, his culinary empire is expanding rapidly. However, it’s his Singaporean roots that led to him launching Harummanis in his home city – a Singapore-Malay restaurant with deep personal meaning, referencing his family’s food business that launched in 1992. “It’s a 32-year-old story with so many people involved,” he says, then reveals, “I think it will be a nice addition to the UAE’s dining scene.” Akmal has since announced the brand will open a venue at Dubai’s Wasl 51 in December 2024.
Akmal also says his team is working on three concepts in the pipeline – that have yet to be revealed. He teased one of them: a restaurant focused entirely on rice. Akmal says, “People like to eat rice. You have biryani rice, Yemeni rice, Saudis eat rice, the Japanese, Chinese… everyone eats rice. But you have to go to different places to eat these different types. Why not have one place that serves all these different types of rice?” The concept is currently on the hunt for the perfect home.
At the heart of everything, Akmal has a real desire to stay authentic. He says, “To say that you are different, or to say you are unique is very overrated. I just apply what I think is the best – but in my way. Some people like it, others don’t. But I think I offer something very different.”
Akmal adds, “I don’t want to sell a product. I want sell a story.”
