Although only a three-hour drive away from the pulsing metropolis of Mumbai, Dharana at Shillim seems like another world. Set in a forested valley surrounded by ancient, almost magical mountains, it is love at first sight for me as I step into the open-air lobby and drink in the natural beauty around me. The founders of this luxury Ayurvedic retreat had pretty much the same reaction when they first came across Shillim Valley in the 90s and since then they’ve sought to preserve and maintain this wilderness, which is part of the Western Ghats, one of eight UNESCO biodiversity hotspots in the world. Older than the Himalayas, this mountain chain runs along India’s western peninsula with montane forest ecosystems home to diverse flora and fauna.
“The founding family’s vision for Dharana at Shillim was to create a sanctuary for holistic wellness that balanced ancient healing practices with modern approaches to wellness, which would gently set guests on a path to rejuvenation and personal growth in a natural environment,” says Dr Arun Pillai, wellness director.
This philosophy is apparent from the moment my “journey to conscious wellness” begins here. It’s not just about regimented schedules, although guests are encouraged to adhere to their treatment plans and stay off their devices, especially in public areas, but every interaction with various staff members, be it buggy drivers, front desk executives, therapists or waiters, is a positive encounter that enhances my overall experience.
Hatha and Iyengar yoga classes are held every day in the morning and late afternoon
Choornakizhi treatment uses poultices filled with herbal powders and medicated oils, which are beneficial for relieving pain in joints and muscle aches.
THE STAY
Out of the 2,500 acres owned by the property, only 300 acres or so comprises built-up area, which includes guest villas, three restaurants, multiple standalone treatment rooms, the house of knowledge, which is home to the culinary studio where guests learn how to cook healthy dishes, and the tranquility pool.
A garden pool villa is to be my home away from home. Not only is it big enough to accommodate a small family, but the garden is also huge with plenty of privacy provided by thick bushes and a dense canopy of trees all around, so sunbathing by the pool becomes my post-breakfast ritual. Clean lines and minimalist décor with muted colours and wooden furniture dominate the living room and bedroom, while the bathroom has stone flooring and a sunken bathtub with views of the garden. On my first night, I snuggle into the four-poster, king-sized bed at 9pm – I have to admit the all-consuming silence is slightly alarming at first but as I adjust to the surroundings it becomes a balm to my city-weary ears and nudges me into a deep sleep.
Shillim Peak is flat on top, giving hikers a chance to take in sweeping views of the surrounding mountains
Treatment room
TREATMENT PLAN
The basis of all treatment plans at Dharana is rooted in Ayurveda, the ancient school of traditional medicine founded in the Indian subcontinent over 3,000 years ago. Ayurvedic medicine seeks to integrate physical, mental and emotional well-being to achieve overall harmony in the human body. According to this system, there are five elements – air, fire, water, earth and ether – which combine in varying degrees to create the doshas. In Sanskrit, ‘dosha’ literally means ‘that which can cause problems’ as these doshas are in constant state of flux over one’s lifetime. There are three types of doshas – vata (air and space), pitta (fire) and kapha (earth and water). Most of us are a combination of two doshas, but rare cases have been observed of individuals who showcase a harmonious blend of all three. As long as the doshas are balanced, one’s prakriti (constitution) remains healthy. The moment the scale starts tilting towards one, health problems usually begin to flare up.
My dosha is a mix of vata and pitta, as revealed by the extensive questionnaire Dr Arun takes me through during a consultation after I arrive. He instructs me to answer each question based on how I was as a child as that would reveal my true constitution – for instance, one may be asked what his/her body structure was like in childhood. The imbalance in my dosha is diagnosed based upon the symptoms I have experienced over the past few years, such as feeling constantly bloated before and after meals, stress, swollen joints and poor sleep patterns. The team charts out a customised treatment plan after I undergo a few tests including one called nadi tarangini, which is an AI-powered pulse diagnostic device with ultra-sensitive sensors used by Ayurvedic doctors to provide accurate pulse readings to support their diagnoses.
Over the course of my stay, I follow a personalised dincharya (daily routine). Each morning I walk to the yogashala accompanied by a chorus of birdsong. At 6.30am the in-house masters take guests through a series of pranayama (breathwork practices) and traditional asanas following the Hatha and Iyengar schools of yoga. A massage follows, either before breakfast or an hour after, and one more after lunch. My roster of therapies includes traditional Ayurvedic massages such as Abhyangam and Choornakizhi. The former is a four-hands massage with medicated oil to aid in lymphatic drainage, calm the nervous system and lubricate joints followed by 10 minutes of steam to eliminate toxins through the process of sweating, which has me sitting in a wooden box with only my head sticking out. Choornakizhi – ‘choorna’ meaning powder and ‘kizhi’ meaning small pouch – involves herbal powders mixed with heated medicated oil, which is then put in a kizhi for fomentation therapy. Before she starts, I show my therapist where I get frequent aches and pains – including my upper thoracic spine, which I am told has a nerve that connects to the gut (not surprising since one of my issues is bloating). She uses kizhis to gently massage my body, paying special attention to the areas of concern. It is believed that this treatment relieves pain and stiffness in joints, clears energy channels and improves blood circulation. Over the next few days, I get foot reflexology to calm my mind, a Tibetan poultice massage using salt to draw out toxins, which have built up in organs like my liver, which is one of the reasons my digestion is out of balance, and Shirodhara during which warm oil is poured in a steady stream onto my third eye. This treatment is beneficial for those who suffer from poor sleep, headaches and stress. It also includes a head, neck and shoulder massage.
To support these therapies, I also undergo a process known as virechana meaning purge (to expel everything in my GI tract). I am given a thick paste made from a variety of herbs, roots and honey to eat on an empty stomach on my second morning. Expect to stay confined to your villa for the rest of the day should you be administered this treatment and your first meal will be rice porridge at around 2pm, provided your gut has been properly cleared. This allowed my digestive system to reset and complement the therapies prescribed for me.
Learn to cook healthy dishes at the culinary studio
Dharana at Shillim is spread over varying elevations
NOURISHING FOOD
Anyone who checks in at Dharana for a wellness programme will eat almost all meals at The Green Table, where the F&B team creates customised menus for each guest after the chefs consult with the doctors. Chefs prepare everything based on Ayurvedic principles, and “we believe in serving food that’s seasonal, organic and local. We also have a small organic farm on the property,” says Sandeep Juyal, the retreat’s executive chef and a certified trainer of Ayurvedic cooking. This means the kitchen here is free of refined flours, processed sugars and refined oils, “and we focus on slow cooking to preserve nutrients and natural flavours,” he adds. They also make their own fresh plant-based milks every morning.
To lower the pitta (fire) in my prakriti, the dishes I am served are prepared without chillies, but have plenty of flavour from aromatics such as garlic, cumin and fresh herbs. Every meal begins with a shot of an elixir made from fresh fruit and veggies and a quarter teaspoon of sautéed ginger to stimulate proper digestion. Each day’s menu is shared in advance and comes with tips for more mindful eating: Enjoy every morsel; Be with your food; Eat slowly, break down the food and then swallow; Avoid distractions and devices. While simple, everything I eat – from roasted vegetables scented with herbs and couscous pilaf with carrot sauce to broccoli salad and pearl barley khichadi – is nourishing and satisfying and best of all, doesn’t leave me bloated.
NATURE HEALS
Tucked away in this serene forest environment, soothed by lush greenery and fresh air, my body immediately starts to decompress and relax and by the third day I notice the bags under my eyes have all but disappeared. Nature is a powerful healer and spending time in a forest has been proven to lower blood pressure and reduce stress. The activities team here organises birdwatching, forest walks and hikes to several peaks accessible from the retreat. I hike to the top of Shillim Peak (920m above sea level) along with a guide and three other guests one morning. The trail begins at one end of the property and meanders through grassland and forest, where we catch sight of an Indian giant squirrel, which is the only mammal to build a nest – and its presence is also indicative of a thriving forest canopy. We emerge from the forest to scale the final few boulders that lead to the top to find that it is flat like a table and reveals a meadow of golden grass, in which we all lie down and give thanks for the experience of a lifetime.
For more information, visit dharanaretreat.com
